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Retrospective Building Warrants


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Looking for some help/advice, so why not try the font of all knowledge that is the TAMB.

I floored my loft to provide extra storage space approximately 3 years ago.

I'm now selling the house and the buyers solicitor is insisting I get a retrospective building warrant and certificate of completion for the work carried out.

I've looked at the council (South lanarkshire) website, and can see the form, but it also requires plans.

My plans were a sheet of A4 paper, a saw and a bag of screws.

Anybody had to do similar know how you go about it? Do I need an architect to do me a plan?

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Looking for some help/advice, so why not try the font of all knowledge that is the TAMB.

I floored my loft to provide extra storage space approximately 3 years ago.

I'm now selling the house and the buyers solicitor is insisting I get a retrospective building warrant and certificate of completion for the work carried out.

I've looked at the council (South lanarkshire) website, and can see the form, but it also requires plans.

My plans were a sheet of A4 paper, a saw and a bag of screws.

Anybody had to do similar know how you go about it? Do I need an architect to do me a plan?

If it's only floored for storage & not an extra room (& no structural work done) there should be no need for an additional building warrant. If you have put in extra sockets etc disconnect them & maintain the loft is only for storage.

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If it's only floored for storage & not an extra room (& no structural work done) there should be no need for an additional building warrant. If you have put in extra sockets etc disconnect them & maintain the loft is only for storage.

I also had to move the roof beams up to allow headspace.

(That's probably an important part I should have mentioned)

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I also had to move the roof beams up to allow headspace.

(That's probably an important part I should have mentioned)

By 'roof beams' do you mean the horizontal ties connecting the two rafters? If so, you'll need to involve a structural engineer.

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By 'roof beams' do you mean the horizontal ties connecting the two rafters? If so, you'll need to involve a structural engineer.

Yeah, those, it's an A shape inside the loft, so moved the horizontal bits up about 12-18 inches.

I did have help from my father in law, who has a bit more of a clue than me. I was mostly the "pass me the screw driver" "hold that there" guy.

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Yeah, those, it's an A shape inside the loft, so moved the horizontal bits up about 12-18 inches.

I did have help from my father in law, who has a bit more of a clue than me. I was mostly the "pass me the screw driver" "hold that there" guy.

You just went ahead and done that yourself, without any input from a structural engineer?

You're fecking mental.

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You just went ahead and done that yourself, without any input from a structural engineer?

You're fecking mental.

I'm being slightly flippant about it? Yes is the answer to the question, but we did know what we were doing.

There are vertical beams as well that weren't moved.

The father in law had done his and had it checked by a surveyor from the council, but they've since moved the goal posts and it's not as straightforward to get it OKd.

I've no worries about the work itself, it's just the paperwork looks a pain in the backside.

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Think you should approach a structural engineer. I assume the "beams" were moved quite a while ago and that fact it's still standing is evidence itself that the roof is structurally sound - you just need to get an engineer to do some calcs and stick his name against it.

I would try to go for as small an outfit as you can find - a wee local guy working for himself type of thing.

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Looking for some help/advice, so why not try the font of all knowledge that is the TAMB.

I floored my loft to provide extra storage space approximately 3 years ago.

I'm now selling the house and the buyers solicitor is insisting I get a retrospective building warrant and certificate of completion for the work carried out.

I've looked at the council (South lanarkshire) website, and can see the form, but it also requires plans.

My plans were a sheet of A4 paper, a saw and a bag of screws.

Anybody had to do similar know how you go about it? Do I need an architect to do me a plan?

How old is the house (appx)? Is it a modern prefabricated truss or an older style rafter which would have been made on site? I doubt the work done would be sufficient to meet the requirements of the structural upgrading needed. Unless you really went "belt and braces" on it.

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How old is the house (appx)? Is it a modern prefabricated truss or an older style rafter which would have been made on site? I doubt the work done would be sufficient to meet the requirements of the structural upgrading needed. Unless you really went "belt and braces" on it.

60 year old house.

Old "beams" were on with nails, now on with coach bolts*

* that's what my "project manager" called them.

We've had 2 surveyors in, and neither seemed particularly bothered or interested, seems it's just the lawyers lawyering for fun?

Cheers for the responses, will try and speak to council to find out exactly what it is I need to provide, then look at getting a structural engineer of required, which looks likely.

Edited by sbcmfc
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60 year old house.

Old "beams" were on with nails, now on with coach bolts*

* that's what my "project manager" called them.

We've had 2 surveyors in, and neither seemed particularly bothered or interested, seems it's just the lawyers lawyering for fun?

Cheers for the responses, will try and speak to council to find out exactly what it is I need to provide, then look at getting a structural engineer of required, which looks likely.

:ok: The main issue that they will have is that the roof weight is properly distributed through the trusses and onto the wallhead. Worst case scenario would be that they require the truss "legs" to be doubled up to allow for the cross-member being lifted.

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:ok: The main issue that they will have is that the roof weight is properly distributed through the trusses and onto the wallhead. Worst case scenario would be that they require the truss "legs" to be doubled up to allow for the cross-member being lifted.

:ok:

You sound like you know what you're talking about.

Cheers.

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sbcmfc,

I'm a consulting civil/structural engineer. We come across this sort of thing quite often. It's actually quite difficult to analyse a traditional roof truss such as you seem to have, but I've seen lots where the upper tie has been raised with no real ill effects. the main problems come from people wanting to convert their loft to living accommodation and then there is usually a problem with the bottom tie (the one you stand on) being too light to carry the imposed domestic loading (1.5kN/m2 as opposed to the 0.25kN/m2 that is allowed for an attic with storage). I have found that if the verticals (oxters we call them in Scotland) are about a third of the way up the rafter and the tie about 2/3rd of the way up it works fairly well. It's not really terribly accurate stuff though, and it's unlikely that a slight change in the level of the tie will have made much difference to the way the loads are distributed. Replacing the nails with coach screws will definitely have strengthened the joists which is goo - never ceases to amaze me how trusses held together with a couple of 2" nails work OK.

I would suggest asking your Building Control department if they can give you a letter of comfort stating that they do not have any concerns. I had to do that once and it cost about £100 I think.

Had you done the alterations more than ten years ago, I don't think they would have been bothered.

Far worse is when people have modern W trusses, the prefabricated kind, which can't really be altered. Frequently people just cut away some of the internal members because they get in the way. Generally have to be reinstated and that's a pain as they're so flimsy with tiny wee timbers that you can't get a decent connection without the timber splitting.

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Cheers Alibi,

Can't get a letter of comfort, as the work would have had to be done pre 2005, I didn't move in until late 2005.

My options appear to be get an architect to do a plan and he'd get a structural engineer to check it and get the warrant/certificate.

(£700-900)

Or re-instate the original beams, which looks like being cheaper and easier if all parties agree.

(£150-250)

Had an architect have a look, and he's happy to do it, but suggested reinstating it would be far cheaper than paying him.

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