robertrcorr Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Lads, some help... After being down south for 20 years it belatedly occurred to me a few years ago that I hadn't seen my own country. Did the West Highland Way and Skye last year and now keen to visit the Outer Hebrides. Was thinking of getting the ferry from Oban to Barra and the working my way north for a week and coming home via Stornoway/Ullapool/Inverness. Anyone know any must-visit villages, sights and beaches? Tips on good hotels, pubs, restaurant also much appreciated ... And one specific question: would you hire a car on the mainland or on the island? Cheers in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfieMoon Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 31 minutes ago, robertrcorr said: Lads, some help... After being down south for 20 years it belatedly occurred to me a few years ago that I hadn't seen my own country. Did the West Highland Way and Skye last year and now keen to visit the Outer Hebrides. Was thinking of getting the ferry from Oban to Barra and the working my way north for a week and coming home via Stornoway/Ullapool/Inverness. Anyone know any must-visit villages, sights and beaches? Tips on good hotels, pubs, restaurant also much appreciated ... And one specific question: would you hire a car on the mainland or on the island? Cheers in advance. Depending on your budget - I'd recommend getting the flight from Glasgow-Barra rather than the Oban boat. Quite an experience and would be a great start to the trip. Especially if you get lucky with a good weather day. We stayed in the Castlebay Hotel when I was there about 6/7 years ago which was great and good meals as well. There was another bar just along from The Castlebay Hotel which was decent on a weekend night - can't remember the name though but should be easily found. Some of the bays have seals and the adjoining southern islands have the best beaches from memory. We hired a car from a local chap. I think the bus service was supposed to be okay for getting around the perimeter of the island but depends on how much flexibility you want. I would hire a car again. Have also been to Harris & Lewis (although it was combined with Skye, rather than your route). Must see beaches on South Harris are: 1) Luskentyre* 2) Huishinish Bay *If you're going to Luskentyre I'd recommend popping into Donald John Mackay (Harris Tweed weaver) who is located at a house and little green shed just next to the road along to Luskentyre beach. Nice chatty chap and you'll see the old loom in action and get better tweed than some of the big stores (although they are worth a look also). I've stayed in a couple of nice B&Bs on South Harris if you want details feel free to PM me. The west coast road from Tarbert down to Levervurgh on Harris is decent and nice scenery. The east coast road back up is the 'golden road' from memory. Winds like a roller coaster but good views back eastwards and a nice couple of villages to stop. Moving north - I've been in Stornaway a couple of times and don't have much to report. It's just like a big town in a remote location and not in any way picturesque. Calainish Stones are the obvious go-to when on Lewis and think there are a few other bits and pieces but I've generally spent more time on South Harris. Hopefully that helps as a starter and I'm sure there'll be some more contributions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertrcorr Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 Thanks AlfieMoon, that's really appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exile Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 If you are thinking of taking a car on the ferry remember to book ahead. That could determine possibility of where and when to start and finish the trip; And probably if you wish to hire a car to book ahead too. And (I think there was a thread on this in the past) unless you're a vegetarian, try the Stornoway black pudding. http://foodanddrink.scotsman.com/food/10-things-might-not-know-stornoway-black-pudding/ Genuine question: does anyone know why Lewis and Harris are so named, as if separate (is)lands? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huddersfield Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 A nice way to get to the Outer Hebrides is via Glenelg on the little ferry then drive over Skye to get the boat from Uig (http://skyeferry.co.uk/) either to Harris or N. Uist. Eriskay is nice (home of 'Whisky Galore) - you can look for the ponies which I think are pretty much the only completely wild horses anywhere in Britain. There's a pub at the bottom of S. Uist (Polochair Inn I think) that is a cracking place to sit out on a nice evening. I've still got Barra on my 'to do' list, but I worked with a woman from there many years ago who could drink any man I knew under the table, so maybe a good night out to be had . I've been to the islands a few times over the years & I'd say in my experience that when I go there it's more about how I feel & less about what I do. There's not an abundance of stuff to do, but endless hidden spots where you can just enjoy what's around you. As an aside, the only time I ever saw an eagle in the wild was on the road approaching Uig on my way to catch a ferry. There's also a few fascinating local history stories to be found...the story of the Iolaire for example for which there is a memorial just outside Stornoway, or Scarp & the rocket post. Hope you enjoy the trip anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huddersfield Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 On 29/06/2017 at 7:09 PM, exile said: Genuine question: does anyone know why Lewis and Harris are so named, as if separate (is)lands? My daughter worked out there for a while & from memory, I think she reckoned it was something to do with geology - I'll ask her again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heuch Moray Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 15 hours ago, Huddersfield said: I've been to the islands a few times over the years & I'd say in my experience that when I go there it's more about how I feel & less about what I do. There's not an abundance of stuff to do, but endless hidden spots where you can just enjoy what's around you. 1 Exactly! The Hebridean islands have this effect with their vast isolated landscapes, spectacular skies and empty beaches. Instant tranquillity and freedom from everyday life. Rather than the 5-hour ferry from Oban to Barra I'd also suggest the Uig - Lochmaddy (Nth Uist) route working your way south to Eriskay then ferry to Barra. Doubling back to visit Harris is easily done with the threading of the islands by causeways. Don't overlook Vatersay the most southernly island, hopefully you won't be battered with heavy hail seeking refuge in your car. I never did make it to Harris due to the ferry on amber alert from Berneray to Leverburgh. However that evening I did experience the most magnificent storm I've ever encountered trying to reach Taigh Chearsabhaigh Arts Centre in Lochmaddy. Talk about blowing your bloody doors off! I should add my visit was in March. Staying in Locheport, North Uist was captivating with its charming people, an abundance of wildlife and a seascape of lochs and lochans which incidentally must look spectacular flying over and into Barra and we did have some glorious weather. It's a great place to buy fresh local food from the Hebridean Smokehouse if you like salmon, lobster, scallops and trout. No fancy restaurants and we never did find a local pub but self catering we at least kept the local Co-op busy. It's all about exploring your surrounds. Magical moments spotting deer swimming and otters fishing, alas no corncrakes but plenty sea eagles and sheep outnumbering the residents. Local artists welcome visitors into their home workshops more for a friendly chat than bothering if you leave only with their freshly laid hen's eggs than their own artwork. All round favourites Nth Uist, Barra and Eriskay. The Deck restaurant in Barra should be good overlooking the bay and castle though was closed in March. Slowing down to allow eight Erislkay wild ponies walk in front and take the lead on the road was a key moment. There's been a lot of good advice from the posts. Enjoy whatever comes your way, you won't forget it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heuch Moray Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 On 6/29/2017 at 7:09 PM, exile said: Genuine question: does anyone know why Lewis and Harris are so named, as if separate (is)lands? Historically was the island not divided between two MacLeod sons and that one division has remained? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckielugger Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Something i want to do myself, watch a match on Eriskay....they play in the summer on Saturdays...but only a few home fixtures. They are in the Barra & Uist League, fixtures on Facebook or Twitter perhaps. Other teams on Barra, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist. Further north, there is a Lewis and Harris Summer League. The Eriskay ground got picked by FIFA as one of the most scenic/unusual in the world .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenfrewBlue Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 I spend most of my time on Islay so haven't travelled extensively further North, I'm ashamed to say. Did spend some time on the Uists and Benbecula in the early 90s before I learned to drive. Taxis were fine and it was the summer so walking was easy too. Stayed at the Dark Isle Hotel on Benbecula and it was a decent place. Food was OK but the live music was excellent and the bar was old school. ? Worth a visit if you're in that area, although I don't remember there being much choice otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOUBLE A Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Done Barra to Lewis at the start of June, can't help about hire cars as we took our car, was there for a week and done pretty much all we had wanted to. Was in a b&b in Castlebay which was pretty central, would say a must do is see the plane landing on the beach, lovely beach on Vatersay beside the community hall, we seen all we wanted to see of Barra and Vatersay by car in a day Had another b&b in Daliburgh, South Uist, because we had the dog with us we eat in the dog friendly Borrodale Hotel in Daliburgh where the food was lovely, was lovely touring about the Uist's, Berneray, Eriskay and Benbecula, loads of stops for lovely views/beaches The drive for the Leverburgh ferry up the west coast of Harris Is cracking, beautiful beach just out of the village and the view further up towards Seilbost and Luskentyre is amazing and a walk along Luskentyre is a must do, on Lewis we did the Calanish stones and Blackhouse at gearrannan and headed up to the Butt of Lewis lighthouse which was lovely but bloody windy, the Iolaire monument was also a must visit for me There is an Outer Hebrides thread on the second page of the general travel area with some good advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haggis_trap Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Really good guide book below. Hebrides are a whole different world (even compared to remote parts of Scotland). As mentioned above the best thing to do is chill out and simply wander along random beaches! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Outer-Hebrides-Guide-Charles-Books/dp/0951785990 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-Man Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 (edited) Did a bit of a tour in October. Sailed Ullapool to Stornaway then drove through the islands, listed not by route as I can't remember it, Lewis, Harris, North and South Uist, Eriskay, Berneray, Vatersay and Barra. I loved https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Bernera https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uig,_Lewis beach there is out of this world. Truth be told they all are but Bernera and Uig were my favourites. If you're camping then I highly recommend this place, wild camping but with benefit of toilet and shower. £2/night, pay up at owners house when you leave, wee honesty box at front door. Small independent distillery at bottom of the road and if you like to eat the flesh of fellow creatures there's a fish smoking place across the road and all the other campers were getting wired into langoustines, salmon and oysters. Best swim was on Vatersay, parked camper van on grass across from community centre and onto beach from there. The water was crystal clear and very calm. I couldn't swim on the beach over the road as the waves were crashing in, few surfers out. We were in a camper van which was perfect, an abundance of beautiful places to just pitch up walk the dogs, make dinner then get rat arsed watching the sea. Edited July 2, 2017 by G-Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hampden_loon2878 Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 I was taking to a guy from sooth uist last trip,,, he was highly complimentary of a night out on barra, referred to it as the ibiza of the north haha,, said the craick is brilliant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heuch Moray Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 On 6/28/2017 at 4:23 PM, robertrcorr said: ..And one specific question: would you hire a car on the mainland or on the island? We took our own cars over via Skye but don't see why not hire on the island if it suits you better. Here's a good site listing hire from four of the islands. It's also one of the best for tourist information. http://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/visitor-info/travelling-around-the-outer-hebrides/car-hire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heuch Moray Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 14 hours ago, buckielugger said: The Eriskay ground got picked by FIFA as one of the most scenic/unusual in the world .... 1 The mighty Eriskay FC and 'their well bumpy higgledy-pigglety previously five-cornered pitch boasted by a helpful rock in the middle...since removed.' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckielugger Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Cracking pic of Eriskay's stadium! Really hope i get there one day and also enjoy a full scale holiday in the outer isles as per the originator of this thread. Also would love to get to Islay & Jura & Colonsay. And other two islands not yet visited are Coll & Tiree (called in on the ferry but not yet landed or stayed). And a final ambition is to make it out to St Kilda..first saw about it as a child on a visit to Dunvegan Castle on Skye and had the dream of visiting ever since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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